Complete list of all the mods I've done to my B1 printer including adding a BL Touch sensor, Fitting E3D Hemera Hotend, Adding an additional Z-axis stepper motor, X Y Z Cable drag chains & spool holder with filament guide. Warning! Modifying 3D printers can be difficult depending on the modification you're attempting. Along with your knowledge on the subject. If you choose to replicate anything you've seen me do to my printer, you assume all the responsibility for any damage caused to the printer or otherwise. Firmware BIQU B1 - BL Touch enabled Firmware (Marlin v2.0.7): https://drive.google.com/file/d/1hA0YWWLuBLSxj6hug5vP0etp5dLGwlDv/view?usp=sharing BIQU B1 - Default firmware (Marlin v2.0.6): https://drive.google.com/file/d/1lngKTn-ftTjN0HLZmiKRmH5iiLiPfFy-/view?usp=sharing Compiling / Editing Marlin To edit the Marlin firmware I use Visual Studio Code by Microsoft. To read & compile the firmware, I used "PlatformIO IDE" and "Auto Build Marlin" extensions inside VSC. It's free to download and use: https://code.visualstudio.com/download Hemera Hotend Firmware settings: If you choose replicate the X-Carriage plate with a Hemera hotend, BLtouch sensor & Blower fan. Here are the settings I changed in Marlin (changes are in RED text) Uncomment: #define USE_PROBE_FOR_Z_HOMING Uncomment: #define Z_SAFE_HOMING #define TEMP_SENSOR_0 5 #define HEATER_0_MAXTEMP 300 #define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT { 80 , 80 , 400 , 409 } #define DEFAULT_MAX_FEEDRATE { 150 , 150 , 5 , 5 } #define NOZZLE_TO_PROBE_OFFSET { 0, -47.0, -3.0 } #define Y_BED_SIZE 223 Don't forget to perform a temperature cycle on the hotend to determine the correct Ki, Kp & Kd values. More info on this topic is available here: https://reprap.org/wiki/PID_Tuning 3D Printed Parts Fan Duct STL files: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4871426 Drag chain STL files: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4871442 X Carriage Cutting template: Download: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1twM5uDEOIBM7zax33n63OV89b6FBANLz/view?usp=sharing Wiring Diagram : Download: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1--AL5Ga6xZP1AtZEMo7D6fkkTosJenhW/view?usp=sharing Hardware List: ANTCLABS Bltouch Sensor (be aware of counterfeits/clones) : https://amzn.to/3oZmXUY E3D Hemera 24V hotend kit : https://e3d-online.com/products/e3d-hemera-direct-kit-1-75mm JST Connector kit (used to wire up everything to the control board) : https://amzn.to/3oWhyhH X-Carriage with Hemera Hotend mod 1meter of GT2 Driver belt 5015 Blower Fan 24Volt (Part cooling fan) 3x M5x6mm spacer (Spaces the Hemera away from the X carriage plate) 380mm long 20x20 V-slot rail 3x M3x12mm (Mounts Hemera) 3x M5x26mm (Mounts V-wheels) 1x M4x12mm + M4 nut(Limit switch bump stop) 1x M5x8mm Countersunk (Mounts limit switch bracket) 2x M3x10mm (mounts limit switch to bracket) 2x M3 Knurled inserts (mounts limit switch) Z-Axis Motor mod 400mm 8mm lead screw + nut 3x M5x6mm spacer (Spaces the mount away from the v-wheels) 2x 5x8mm Coupler (Nema motor to lead screw coupler) 3x M5x36mm (lead screw nut mount) 4x M3x12mm (Nema motor) 2x M5x20mm (Mounts nema motor bracket to Z axis rail) 2x M5x12mm + nuts (Mounts nema motor bracket to chassis) Drag Chain mod 8x M3x10mm + nuts (Connects drag chains to mounts) 2x M3x12mm (X Z Axis drag chain mount) 2x M3x8mm (X Carriage drag chain mount) 3x M5x12mm + nuts (Y Z Axis Chassis drag chain mount) 1x M5x12mm + nut (Y Axis Bed drag chain mount) 540mm long, 10x10mm R28 Drag chain (X Axis) 340mm long, 10x20mm R28 Drag chain (Y axis) 730mm long, 10x20mm R28 Drag chain (Z axis) Spool Holder mod Quick change spool holder: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1241566 150mm 20x20mm V-slot rail 2x 608zz bearings 2x V-Slot right angle brackets 5x M5 V-slot rail nuts 5x M5x8mm M8 threaded rod 4x M8 washer 3x M8 Nyloc nuts 4mm Pneumatic push fitting 1m of 4mm O.D tubing (filament guide) 240mm long 25x3mm alloy flat bar

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WARNING! This induction heater produces hundreds of volts across its output. DO NOT touch the circuit OR workcoil while powered on! Or you risk being electrocuted! Once the power is switched off, the capacitor bank instantly discharges and the circuit is safe to work on. Downloads: Circuit Schematic PCB Gerber Files Watch Build Video Specifications: PCB Size: 86 x 284mm Input voltage: 40~65VDC Max input current: 50A Max power consumption: 3,250watts Assembling the PCB You’ll find all the components & their specifications listed below. You can download a detailed schematic to identify what component goes where on the PCB. PCB Components: C1~14 – 330nF 600VAC Capacitors C15, C16 – 2.2uF 100V Ceramic Capacitors D1, D2 - 12V 5W Zener Diode D3, D4 – FR307 Fast Diode D5 – 5mm LED D6 - SB5H100 200A 100V Schottky Diode L1, L2 – 60uH 25A Custom made inductors ( watch video ) R1, R3 – 150R 5W Metal Oxide Resistor R2, R4 – 1K 5W Metal Oxide Resistor R5, R6 – 10K 1/2W Metal Oxide Resistor R7 – 4.7K 1/2W Metal Oxide Resistor R8, R9, R10, R11 – 18R 1/2W Metal Oxide Resistor Q1, Q2, Q3, Q4 - IRFP4668PBF MOSFET Bolstering the PCB traces The traces on the PCB that are exposed on the underside need to be bolstered by either cutting out copper busbars from a sheet of copper (1.5mm or thicker) Or by using 14AWG, 2.5mm core electrical cable, soldered to the PCB traces. I used the latter method in the build video, and although it’s not very aesthetically pleasing. It’s proven to work without any issues Workcoil Design The workcoil is the business end of all induction heaters. When it comes to designing a workcoil several design elements should be taken into account. This is an area where I’d admit, I’m still learning myself, so I don’t consider my advice on this topic to be all that helpful. But, a good starting point is to have a workcoil with 6 turns of 3/8” copper tubing to make the workcoil. The internal diameter should be around 10~20mm larger than the piece of metal you’re intending to heat. Using a workcoil that has a much larger diameter than the piece of metal you’re heating, will reduce performance & lead to longer heat times. The air gap between turns has a significant role in determining the input current consumption and power output. Increasing the air gap also increases input current consumption. And the opposite is also true, smaller airgap = lower input current consumption. Calculating the correct air gap on paper before you construct your workcoil is very doable however, it's also possible to use a trial & error method. Start by keeping the windings tight (around 2mm air gap), operate the induction heater, and monitor the current consumption, if you wish to increase the current, then gently spread the winding further apart to increase the airgap. You can repeat this process until you achieve your ideal power input/output. (Don't forget to have the induction heater OFF while making alterations to the workcoil) A company called ‘Ambrell’ published a 28-page guide around workcoil design. You can request a free copy of their guide by using this link Click Here (They do ask for your name & email, but it’s 100% free) Cooling During normal operation, the MOSFET heatsinks & capacitors will get hot! You will need to use a fan to blow air over the components to keep the temperatures at acceptable levels. For runtime more than 30 secs or so, the workcoil will get very hot. I’d highly recommend cooling the workcoil by continually pumping water through it. Printed Circuit Board Order your own custom printed circuit board using the files below: Download PCB Gerber Files Inductors I made my own custom inductors for this project. I used a total of 4x T157-26 Inductor Toroid Rings. Each inductor has 2 toroid rings stacked on top of one another. I have found this to be the most cost-effective solution for this project. A total of 16 turns of 2mm (12AWG) magnet wire is wrapped around the toroids to produce an inductor with approximately 60uH of inductance. You can customize the inductance by adding or subtracting turns around the toroids. If you’re heating smaller pieces of metal, to maximize power output from the induction heater into the piece of metal you’re heating, you may want to consider lowering the inductance to around 30~40uH. Similarly, the inverse is true. If you’re heating large pieces of metal & your induction heater is drawing more current th